So…to Ko or (not) to Koh? That is the question!  Both small words, but you will probably see them many, many times during your visit to Ko Samui, and some explanation is perhaps timely.

The Thai language is a part of the Tai group of the Tai-Kadai language family. This family of languages seems to have no definite ties to any other group. Some Thai words are borrowed from Sanskrit, Pali (both from India) and Old Khmer (Cambodia).

It is a tonal and analytic language, meaning that how you pronounce a word gives it its meaning (same as the Chinese language) and the analytic description means that most of the language is composed of single morpheme words (this means that the word cannot be divided up any further, and in itself it has meaning).

I knew you’d ask … but as a very quick and brief example, think of the English word dog. Single concept (furry animal), no prefix or suffix. Now think of something like untouchable.  Here we have a word made up of three bits: un – touch – able. Only the bit in the middle has stand-alone meaning; the other two are a prefix and a suffix. If you need more explanation, read some of Stephen Pinker’s excellent books on linguistics.

Today, Standard Thai is spoken by over 20 million people, but there are also over ten other related Tai languages spoken in the country.

And there are several separate ways to speak the language, depending on what you are talking about or to whom you are speaking, from the informal ‘street’ or ‘common Thai’ used between relatives and friends; to ‘elegant’ or ‘formal’ – the official and written style; the ‘rhetorical’ which is used for public speaking; ‘religious’ when addressing monks or discussing Buddhism and lastly, ‘Royal Thai’ when speaking to or about the royal family.

Most Thai people will be able to speak and understand all of these, but the first two will be used for most conversations. The last three are also taught in schools.

Back to our Ko / Koh …Why we have two versions of this word in Latin script is debatable.  At a guess, it may well have started when people transcribing the Thai language wrote it down as they heard it: some possibly thought that the ‘h’ on the end extended the sound of the ‘o’.  It’s a bit like what happened when the first Europeans visited India, and we got Bombay – now Mumbai, and Calcutta – now Kolkata … so how come they got Delhi right then?!

But both Ko and Koh mean the same thing: ‘island’, There are over 1,430 islands making up the country of Thailand, so you will indeed see the Thai script or the words Ko or Koh a lot!

While you are on Ko Samui why not visit its sister islands – Ko Tao, and Ko Phangan (and you may also see Koh Pha Ngan).  These three islands form part of the Surat Thani province of Thailand.

Ko Tao is a small island (approx 21 sq kms) about two and a half hours from Ko Samui.  It is also known as Turtle Island.   Originally named because of its shape, it was however a favourite spot for the Hawksbill and Green turtles to lay their eggs. It remained largely uninhabited and undeveloped for the last few hundred years, but in the late 20th century became a very popular tourist and scuba diving centre.  Development soon encroached on the turtles’ favourite spots, of course, but new programmes are in place to encourage these magnificent creatures to keep coming back.

Ko Phangan is a much larger island to the north of Ko Samui, and covers around 168 sq kms. Home of the famous full moon parties, it is also worthy of a visit because it is a very friendly and family-oriented tourist destination, with some fabulous white sandy beaches to enjoy.

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Are you suggesting that coconuts migrate?

Well, silly Monty Python, of course they do. Using the oceans to spread their huge coconut seeds (each fully grown one weighs approximately 4.4 kgs / 3.2lbs) the coconut palm has populated vast areas of the topics.  Some seeds have even been found off the Norwegian coast.

The palm – cocos nucifera – needs high temperatures (above 12 degrees every day of the year), lots of sunshine, regular rainfall and humidity in order to survive, and nothing growing above it – that’s why we don’t see it in Europe as a growing species, and why it first flourished along empty coastlines. It loves sandy soils, and can obviously tolerate high salinity. It can grow as high as 30 metres and produces between 30 and 75 fruits a year, and when very carefully cultivated, sometimes more.

Defying gravity at times, it seems to be able to continue growing even when leaning at 45 degrees or more, despite relying on a fibrous root system, with no big tap root or root hairs.

And of course, as soon as man realised how beneficial this plant is he intervened to give it a helping hand in establishing itself, and seafarers of long ago would transport the nuts for cultivation. Over 80 countries now grow coconut palms, not only for their beauty and decorative value but because almost every part of the tree and its seeds can be used.  Its various names in local languages hint at this: kalpa vriksha (Sanskrit) means ‘the tree which gives the necessities of life’; pokok seribu guna (Malay) ‘the tree of a thousand uses’; and in the Philippines it is ‘the tree of life’.

Coconut timber and the huge leaves from the palm can be used for building and furniture making. The timber is water resistant, and produces good, straight timber.
Coconut water – the sweet juice from the nut – is a refreshing drink, and is growing in popularity as an isotonic sport drink because of the natural ingredients, including protein, anti-oxidants, minerals and vitamins.
Coconut flesh – the white flesh or meat from the nut can be used fresh or dried, made into flour or chips, and is widely used in both savoury and sweet dishes.
Copra – is the dried meat of the seed, and from this comes coconut oil and coconut meal.
Coir – the fibre from the coconut husk, has a myriad of uses: ropes, brushes, sacks, mats and stuffing for various household furniture and furnishings.
Coconut milk and cream – produced by infusing the coconut flesh (either fresh or dried) in hot water or milk.
Coconut toddy, nectar, palm wine, palm sugar – all drinks, fresh or fermented, produced from the palm flower sap.
Coconut vinegar – produced from the coconut water.
Heart of palm – a rare delicacy, as using the young buds kills the parent palm.
Coconut sprout – from newly germinated seeds, which produce an edible substance of a fluffy consistency, a bit like marshmallows.
Coconut root – can be used to produce a mouthwash, medicine for dysentery and diarrhoea, and a dye. You can also use a frayed piece as a toothbrush!

What a plant!

Thailand is the 6th largest producer of coconuts in the world.  In 2009 it produced 1.7million tonnes.
In some places in Thailand, coconuts are harvested by trained monkeys (pig-tailed macaques) called ling gaeng.  The monkeys climb the trees, pick the coconuts and throw them down to their handler.  These monkeys are trained in special schools, and the best will take part in competitions each year to find the quickest harvester.

Coconuts can be harvested every 40 – 90 days, depending on how good their growing soil is and how quickly that particular tree is producing fruit, so with luck, when you visit Koh Samui, several farmers will be gathering in their produce. It’s great fun watching the men run up the trees and cut down the seeds – just be careful to stand well back! And if you’re lucky and find a farmer who uses the monkeys, you will have a great photo opportunity.

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